SRF Hubs

Basic information

We have sold quite a few of these to date and have finally been able to build an inventory of hubs for sale with some of the CSR’s and individuals supplying us with an inventory of worn hubs. Thank goodness they saved worn ones. I have many hubs in stock ready to ship. The way we do this is precisely how industry refurbishes wear areas on cams, motor/bearing mating surfaces for pumps, motors, generators, etc.

 

Cost:

Refurbished hub price: $260.00/ea.

Credit back to you if you give us a hub that we can refurbish: $40.00/ea.

Your final cost after exchange = $220.00/ea.

Please remember to remove the studs prior to shipping it to us if you can.

 

Checking hubs for wear

The best way to know if you have a worn hub is to measure the “hub to bearing” diameter as shown on the illustration below. Typically, the front diameter wears and the back diameter does not. I measure each one I get to make sure that the hub needs refurbished. If there is no wear, I return it to you. I have received some with over .0015″ front taper (difference in the readings illustrated) on the diameter. These will cause very fast bearing failure if used in this condition. Another quick way to check for a bad hub is to simply see if the bearing will slip over the hub without any press force put on it. If it slides on, even partially, it is most likely worn.

Needless to say, if a hub is severely scored (scratched), it is most likely a bad hub. If you were to mic on a scored hub, it will most likely read higher than the actual diameter of the hub.

Hub Wear

 

Ordering a hub on our shelf

We have an option that will get you a hub faster. If you are OK with not getting YOUR hub back, I can send you a refurbished hub from our inventory. Some guys like to get their own hub back (especially Fast Forward Hubs) as a preference but it typically takes about 4 to 6 weeks for me to process it. Technically, there is no downside to getting a replacement but there are cases where you would get a hub with a “slit” in it from the previous owner of the hub cutting too deep into the bearing when removing it. This has practically no affect on the hub application. It’s just not perfect looking. See a pic of one that I might send you that has a “slit” after refurbishing.

hub

Metal fatigue and our Guarantee

The one consistently better feature of the Fast Forward hubs that is better than many of the older hubs is that they have at least a .060″ fillet radius where the bearing shaft surface meets the back flange of the hub. Many of the other ones have a very small radius which creates a stressed feature. If you have ever seen a hub break (other than from a crash), this is where it typically breaks (cracks). This, and the fact that the Fast Forward hubs are relatively new, are advantages. I have been careful to tell guys that our hubs are guaranteed not to flake, strip, or chip where we refurbish them. This means if the do any of these things, I refund you $$’s, 100%. We have used many of these hubs and have had no wear, at all, on this surface. This is after changing bearings on those hubs several times. The refurbished surface is very hard (60Rc) and extremely tough.

Now, having said this, what I cannot guarantee is that the hubs will not fail due to “metal fatigue.” After all, we are extending the life of the hub to a point that perhaps they fail due to metal fatigue. I have had this happen on both hubs that were never refurbished and I had it happen on one of the refurbished hubs after 22 races and many practice and track days. Only God knows how many cycles were on that hub prior to me refurbishing it. All of the ones I have seen fail (non-refurbished and refurbished) have occurred at the fillet radius. I have yet to see a Fast Forward hub fail at that feature. For me, when they failed, these were not catastrophic fails, meaning I did not lose control of the car. I was able to drive the car back to my paddock area. It simply cracked around that fillet section but everything stayed together.